The stories on the map
All the stories
Korea by bikeMay – September 2025
Stage 1 · May 14, 2025At the start of the journey
Even though South Korea is definitely in fashion, it wasn't necessarily at the top of our wish list. The K-wave hadn't really reached us, although we hugely admire the little…
Stage 2 · May 15, 2025Discovering Seoul
The little one has already been asleep for an hour when we hear shouting in the hotel. The noise becomes clearer and we realise a karaoke session has just started,…
Stage 3 · May 17, 2025Where it's raining cats and dogs
We open our eyes at 10:30, surprised to wake up so late. We'd expected to need an alarm, but we thought it would be for Clémence. Asleep at 10 pm,…
Stage 4 · May 19, 2025In Seoul, you need to get some perspective
OK, it's Sunday, but there's no question of lazing in bed too late. Our alarm goes off at 10 and once again we have to wake Clémence, who's fast asleep.…
Stage 5 · May 21, 2025Two last days in Seoul
Maybe we're no longer cut out for big-city life, or maybe it's the pace with such a young child that throws us a little. Either way, we decide to head…
Stage 6 · May 23, 2025When nothing goes to plan
The night was difficult, probably because of the imminent departure. We both tossed and turned without really knowing why and struggled to get to sleep. The alarm goes off at…
Stage 7 · May 24, 2025A day to remember
In cognitive psychology, studies have shown that bad memories last much longer than good ones. We remember bad experiences for a long time, less so the good ones. We'll remember…
Stage 8 · May 26, 2025Deeper into rural Korea
Sometimes you thank yourself in hindsight. For example, we'd planned a stage of barely thirty kilometres today to reach a spa town. The perfect plan to forget yesterday's awful day.…
Stage 9 · May 29, 2025A foray into car country
Koreans have a strong sense of public service. It's obvious as you ride through towns, villages and countryside. The smallest village has its station or bus terminal, and they're attractive…
Stage 10 · June 1, 2025Daegu in colour, in South Korea's fourth city
The hotel smells of the sixties, old carpet and the lingering smell of cigarettes from a time when people smoked everywhere. Our bed is as hard as stone; we secretly…
Stage 11 · June 4, 2025Pedalling happily towards Busan
In the end, getting out of the city went smoothly and peacefully. We left around 9, yet the streets were strangely empty. Maybe because of tomorrow's presidential election? Today the…
Stage 12 · June 8, 2025Busan, port city
We wake up this morning with the feeling of something ending. Today we close a two-week chapter of more than 600 kilometres by bike. This crossing of the country from…
Stage 13 · June 11, 2025Our last days in Busan
On a long bike-touring adventure, you must always allow yourself rest days, even if you feel fine. It's the golden rule, and we make the most of it. Busan is…
Stage 14 · June 12, 2025On the way to the east coast, a stop in Gyeongju
The alarm vibrates at 8 this morning to remind us it's time to stop taking it easy. The lazy days in Busan are behind us. After a headache of research,…
Stage 15 · June 14, 2025Pohang, gateway to the Sea of Japan
If we're already on our bikes by 9:30, it's because Clémence was wide awake at 8 on the dot. That leaves us time to enjoy the hotel's hearty breakfast, pack…
Stage 16 · June 17, 2025Riding up the east coast
The word "trail" sometimes takes on its original meaning. Trails were trappers' paths full of obstacles, carved out by people's repeated passage. All things considered, that's sometimes how the east…
Stage 17 · June 23, 2025The last kilometres to Sokcho
Our legs are starting to feel heavy. We're not keeping count, but we've probably already passed 1,000 kilometres by bike since arriving in South Korea. We've become more measured with…
Stage 18 · June 25, 2025A summer in Sokcho
We forgot to celebrate two events when we arrived in Sokcho. First, we've finished our second official South Korean cycle route! That's no small feat with a three-year-old, and we…
Stage 19 · June 28, 2025Westward, all things new
Adventure is stress and discomfort disguised by the tranquillity of memory. After years of travel, we've come to understand that the events that stay with you longest are rarely restful.…
Stage 20 · June 30, 2025Seomjingang, continued and concluded
There are days that should never even begin. Days when everything goes wrong, when the sky falls on your head without warning. And yet it all started so well. After…
Stage 21 · July 4, 2025A break in Suncheon
On long journeys, you need to build in periods of rest. It's necessary even if you don't necessarily feel the need. We've been pedalling for almost six weeks and we…
Stage 22 · July 5, 2025Discovering Jeju Island
Clémence wakes up surprisingly easily this morning. It's only 7 am, and it's been a long time since we've had to wake her. But she's immediately excited at the prospect…
Stage 23 · July 10, 2025Making our way along southern Jeju
With this oppressive heat, we've decided to take our time and go round the island very slowly. That's why we're staying in Seogwipo again today. The southernmost little city in…
Stage 24 · July 13, 2025Jeju, continued and concluded
The hotel isn't exactly in the first flush of youth, but at this price we can't complain too much. When we open the windows, a smell of fish tickles our…
Stage 25 · August 16, 2025Back to Korea
The day ferry from Fukuoka in Japan to Busan in South Korea has the immense good taste to leave at 12:30. For a while now we've been doing our best…
Stage 26 · August 18, 2025Gwangju the revolutionary
If you've never set foot in South Korea, there are lots of cities you've never even heard of. The average French person knows Seoul, maybe Busan, and that's it. Yet…
Stage 27 · August 22, 2025Along the Yeongsangang River
We wake up excited this morning because we're finally starting a new cycle route. We're not in the most densely populated part of Korea, so we've had to split our…
Stage 28 · August 25, 2025Island-hopping in the Sinan archipelago
Leaving Mokpo for the islands of the Sinan archipelago means venturing far from Korea's classic routes. An early ferry, a terminal almost empty of tourists, some surprisingly lengthy formalities… and…
Stage 29 · August 28, 2025The slow ride back up to Seoul
From Jeongeup to Gunsan, our journey back towards Seoul continues through misty mountains, summer rain and unexpected encounters. Between the crushing heat of the valleys, the spontaneous generosity of Koreans…
Stage 30 · August 31, 2025Along the Geum River
After two months of pedalling through the sticky Asian summer, we've learned to live with a clammy heat that never leaves us. More than landscapes or monuments, it's sometimes sensations…
Stage 31 · September 3, 2025Gongju, Sejong and Mokcheon
With our last pedal strokes in South Korea, we keep discovering a fascinating country: Gongju and its red crosses that light up at night, Sejong, the brand-new but deserted administrative…
Stage 32 · September 6, 2025Making our way to Incheon
We leave rural South Korea behind for good and enter the urban sprawl that revolves around Seoul. The end of our journey in this country is drawing near, and it's…
Stage 33 · September 11, 2025Last days in Korea
From Songdo to Incheon airport, the loop closes after four months of travelling in South Korea and Japan. Between sudden downpours, children's museums and last spicy meals, the days slip…