← PreviousWhere it's raining cats and dogsSunday 18 May
OK, it's Sunday, but there's no question of lazing in bed too late. Our alarm goes off at 10 and once again we have to wake Clémence, who's fast asleep. This morning we're heading for one of her favourite activities: a cable car! The Namsan cable car was the very first built in Korea, in 1962. We'd forgotten it was Sunday and have to queue for about thirty minutes before getting on. Clem is amazed when we finally rise up the 600 metres of the ascent. The cabin takes us to a plateau where Namsan Tower stands. From here we're 270 metres above the city and can see all around.
For the first time we realise just how gigantic the city is. 25 million people live in the Seoul metropolitan area — half the population of the whole of Korea! We're starting to look forward to getting on our bikes and setting off on our adventure, leaving the megacity behind. For now, we enjoy the forest, laid out as a big park. There are trails everywhere, and on our way to a playground we come across outdoor gyms. Contrary to the cliché we have of other countries, it's mainly elderly people using the machines.
We finally reach our playground, but once again it disappoints Clémence, as it's mostly logs, ropes and little wooden huts on stilts. We need to rethink our approach, because Koreans clearly don't have the same idea of a playground as we do. This one isn't bad, though; it's just better suited to older children. We still stay an hour before going to eat at a barbecue restaurant in the nearby embassy district. Koreans have a great passion for BBQ, probably linked to the American aid during the war. Clémence tucks in, as there are chips and chicken, and we're happy not to eat anything spicy for once.
We take the bus afterwards, and Seoul bus drivers' reputation is well deserved: they drive flat out! We reach the metro in no time and take line 2 to Jamsil, the iconic site of the 1988 Seoul Olympics. There's also a gigantic Disneyland-style theme park here, but above all the Lotte World Tower, one of the ten tallest skyscrapers in the world. Cassandre makes the most of the lakes to go for a run while Stéphane walks around with Clémence.
An hour later we take the tower lift up to the top, more than 555 metres high. The lift climbs the floors in record time (under a minute) and we discover a spectacular 360-degree panorama. From here you can see every detail of this immense city. Clémence is amazed and keeps pressing her face to the windows. The sun is setting, and an orange veil settles gently over Seoul before giving way to the city lights.
It's time for us to go, as it's getting late. First we make a detour via Gwangjang street-food market in Jongno, the very heart of Seoul. Since it's Sunday evening, the place is relatively quiet (compared with lunchtimes, which are a crush of people). We can look at all the stalls while ordering bindaetteok, mung bean and vegetable pancakes, and Korean dumplings (mandu), which we then eat at leisure while strolling along Cheonggyecheon Stream before going home to sleep.
Monday 19 May
Clémence fell asleep at midnight. We tried everything, but jet lag is still hitting her little body. To get back on track, we bring the alarm forward again and get up at 9:30. We don't dawdle and head straight out for breakfast at a little bakery in our neighbourhood. Clémence has fun saying thank you in Korean, which of course greatly amuses the locals.
We've decided to devote the morning to play, so we head to the other side of the river. We also take the opportunity to check out the Han River cycle path, which we'll take on Thursday to leave Seoul behind. The playground is nice and Clémence enjoys it. She plays alongside little Seoulites and their parents.
Lots of them smile at her, wave or tell her she's very pretty. It happens again on the metro to Ikseon, another hanok village. The traditional houses have all been renovated with big picture windows and house restaurants and shops vying with each other in beauty. We feast on two generous, inexpensive dishes.
Clémence doesn't want a nap, so we walk towards the DDP, Dongdaemun Design Plaza. It's a big square with contemporary architecture. It looks great in photos but is of little real interest. Fortunately a young man is playing the piano, which captivates Clémence, who watches him closely.
We trudge at a child's pace to Naksan Park, which has the particularity of stretching along a hill. The view is different again, showing a more suburban side of Seoul, with the hills of the national parks surrounding the city in the background. The buildings are all identical, forming big housing estates. Our steps lead us to a playground in a tiny, very quiet neighbourhood. We let off steam there before taking the metro back to the flat. The bike trip starts in three days and we really want to get back on track. So we go out to eat at 7 pm and Clémence is in bed by 8. Now we just have to hope we manage to fall asleep early too.