Korea by bike
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May – September 2025

Korea by bike

Seoul, then the road to Busan, the east coast up to Sokcho, Jeju island and the rivers of the west: four months of family cycling, with Clémence's trailer behind us.

By bike33 stories2 013 km by bike

The route

Stories from this journey

  1. May 2025
  2. At the start of the journey
    May 14, 2025
    Stage 1 of 33

    At the start of the journey

    Even though South Korea is definitely in fashion, it wasn't necessarily at the top of our wish list. The K-wave hadn't really reached us, although we hugely admire the little…

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  3. Discovering Seoul
    May 15, 2025
    Stage 2 of 33

    Discovering Seoul

    The little one has already been asleep for an hour when we hear shouting in the hotel. The noise becomes clearer and we realise a karaoke session has just started,…

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  4. Where it's raining cats and dogs
    May 17, 2025
    Stage 3 of 33

    Where it's raining cats and dogs

    We open our eyes at 10:30, surprised to wake up so late. We'd expected to need an alarm, but we thought it would be for Clémence. Asleep at 10 pm,…

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  5. In Seoul, you need to get some perspective
    May 19, 2025
    Stage 4 of 33

    In Seoul, you need to get some perspective

    OK, it's Sunday, but there's no question of lazing in bed too late. Our alarm goes off at 10 and once again we have to wake Clémence, who's fast asleep.…

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  6. Two last days in Seoul
    May 21, 2025
    Stage 5 of 33 · 3,8 km

    Two last days in Seoul

    Maybe we're no longer cut out for big-city life, or maybe it's the pace with such a young child that throws us a little. Either way, we decide to head…

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  7. When nothing goes to plan
    May 23, 2025
    Stage 6 of 33 · 110 km

    When nothing goes to plan

    The night was difficult, probably because of the imminent departure. We both tossed and turned without really knowing why and struggled to get to sleep. The alarm goes off at…

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  8. A day to remember
    May 24, 2025
    Stage 7 of 33 · 16 km

    A day to remember

    In cognitive psychology, studies have shown that bad memories last much longer than good ones. We remember bad experiences for a long time, less so the good ones. We'll remember…

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  9. Deeper into rural Korea
    May 26, 2025
    Stage 8 of 33 · 60 km

    Deeper into rural Korea

    Sometimes you thank yourself in hindsight. For example, we'd planned a stage of barely thirty kilometres today to reach a spa town. The perfect plan to forget yesterday's awful day.…

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  10. A foray into car country
    May 29, 2025
    Stage 9 of 33 · 143 km

    A foray into car country

    Koreans have a strong sense of public service. It's obvious as you ride through towns, villages and countryside. The smallest village has its station or bus terminal, and they're attractive…

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  11. June 2025
  12. Daegu in colour, in South Korea's fourth city
    June 1, 2025
    Stage 10 of 33 · 78 km

    Daegu in colour, in South Korea's fourth city

    The hotel smells of the sixties, old carpet and the lingering smell of cigarettes from a time when people smoked everywhere. Our bed is as hard as stone; we secretly…

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  13. Pedalling happily towards Busan
    June 4, 2025
    Stage 11 of 33 · 137 km

    Pedalling happily towards Busan

    In the end, getting out of the city went smoothly and peacefully. We left around 9, yet the streets were strangely empty. Maybe because of tomorrow's presidential election? Today the…

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  14. Busan, port city
    June 8, 2025
    Stage 12 of 33 · 30 km

    Busan, port city

    We wake up this morning with the feeling of something ending. Today we close a two-week chapter of more than 600 kilometres by bike. This crossing of the country from…

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  15. Our last days in Busan
    June 11, 2025
    Stage 13 of 33

    Our last days in Busan

    On a long bike-touring adventure, you must always allow yourself rest days, even if you feel fine. It's the golden rule, and we make the most of it. Busan is…

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  16. On the way to the east coast, a stop in Gyeongju
    June 12, 2025
    Stage 14 of 33 · 53 km

    On the way to the east coast, a stop in Gyeongju

    The alarm vibrates at 8 this morning to remind us it's time to stop taking it easy. The lazy days in Busan are behind us. After a headache of research,…

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  17. Pohang, gateway to the Sea of Japan
    June 14, 2025
    Stage 15 of 33 · 120 km

    Pohang, gateway to the Sea of Japan

    If we're already on our bikes by 9:30, it's because Clémence was wide awake at 8 on the dot. That leaves us time to enjoy the hotel's hearty breakfast, pack…

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  18. Riding up the east coast
    June 17, 2025
    Stage 16 of 33 · 124 km

    Riding up the east coast

    The word "trail" sometimes takes on its original meaning. Trails were trappers' paths full of obstacles, carved out by people's repeated passage. All things considered, that's sometimes how the east…

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  19. The last kilometres to Sokcho
    June 23, 2025
    Stage 17 of 33 · 141 km

    The last kilometres to Sokcho

    Our legs are starting to feel heavy. We're not keeping count, but we've probably already passed 1,000 kilometres by bike since arriving in South Korea. We've become more measured with…

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  20. A summer in Sokcho
    June 25, 2025
    Stage 18 of 33 · 7,5 km

    A summer in Sokcho

    We forgot to celebrate two events when we arrived in Sokcho. First, we've finished our second official South Korean cycle route! That's no small feat with a three-year-old, and we…

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  21. Westward, all things new
    June 28, 2025
    Stage 19 of 33 · 55 km

    Westward, all things new

    Adventure is stress and discomfort disguised by the tranquillity of memory. After years of travel, we've come to understand that the events that stay with you longest are rarely restful.…

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  22. Seomjingang, continued and concluded
    June 30, 2025
    Stage 20 of 33 · 162 km

    Seomjingang, continued and concluded

    There are days that should never even begin. Days when everything goes wrong, when the sky falls on your head without warning. And yet it all started so well. After…

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  23. July 2025
  24. A break in Suncheon
    July 4, 2025
    Stage 21 of 33

    A break in Suncheon

    On long journeys, you need to build in periods of rest. It's necessary even if you don't necessarily feel the need. We've been pedalling for almost six weeks and we…

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  25. Discovering Jeju Island
    July 5, 2025
    Stage 22 of 33 · 112 km

    Discovering Jeju Island

    Clémence wakes up surprisingly easily this morning. It's only 7 am, and it's been a long time since we've had to wake her. But she's immediately excited at the prospect…

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  26. Making our way along southern Jeju
    July 10, 2025
    Stage 23 of 33 · 61 km

    Making our way along southern Jeju

    With this oppressive heat, we've decided to take our time and go round the island very slowly. That's why we're staying in Seogwipo again today. The southernmost little city in…

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  27. Jeju, continued and concluded
    July 13, 2025
    Stage 24 of 33 · 68 km

    Jeju, continued and concluded

    The hotel isn't exactly in the first flush of youth, but at this price we can't complain too much. When we open the windows, a smell of fish tickles our…

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  28. August 2025
  29. Back to Korea
    August 16, 2025
    Stage 25 of 33 · 16 km

    Back to Korea

    The day ferry from Fukuoka in Japan to Busan in South Korea has the immense good taste to leave at 12:30. For a while now we've been doing our best…

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  30. Gwangju the revolutionary
    August 18, 2025
    Stage 26 of 33

    Gwangju the revolutionary

    If you've never set foot in South Korea, there are lots of cities you've never even heard of. The average French person knows Seoul, maybe Busan, and that's it. Yet…

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  31. Along the Yeongsangang River
    August 22, 2025
    Stage 27 of 33 · 86 km

    Along the Yeongsangang River

    We wake up excited this morning because we're finally starting a new cycle route. We're not in the most densely populated part of Korea, so we've had to split our…

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  32. Island-hopping in the Sinan archipelago
    August 25, 2025
    Stage 28 of 33 · 157 km

    Island-hopping in the Sinan archipelago

    Leaving Mokpo for the islands of the Sinan archipelago means venturing far from Korea's classic routes. An early ferry, a terminal almost empty of tourists, some surprisingly lengthy formalities… and…

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  33. The slow ride back up to Seoul
    August 28, 2025
    Stage 29 of 33 · 14 km

    The slow ride back up to Seoul

    From Jeongeup to Gunsan, our journey back towards Seoul continues through misty mountains, summer rain and unexpected encounters. Between the crushing heat of the valleys, the spontaneous generosity of Koreans…

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  34. Along the Geum River
    August 31, 2025
    Stage 30 of 33 · 96 km

    Along the Geum River

    After two months of pedalling through the sticky Asian summer, we've learned to live with a clammy heat that never leaves us. More than landscapes or monuments, it's sometimes sensations…

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  35. September 2025
  36. Gongju, Sejong and Mokcheon
    September 3, 2025
    Stage 31 of 33 · 83 km

    Gongju, Sejong and Mokcheon

    With our last pedal strokes in South Korea, we keep discovering a fascinating country: Gongju and its red crosses that light up at night, Sejong, the brand-new but deserted administrative…

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  37. Making our way to Incheon
    September 6, 2025
    Stage 32 of 33 · 46 km

    Making our way to Incheon

    We leave rural South Korea behind for good and enter the urban sprawl that revolves around Seoul. The end of our journey in this country is drawing near, and it's…

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  38. Last days in Korea
    September 11, 2025
    Stage 33 of 33 · 35 km

    Last days in Korea

    From Songdo to Incheon airport, the loop closes after four months of travelling in South Korea and Japan. Between sudden downpours, children's museums and last spicy meals, the days slip…

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  39. The end Kyushu by bike The next journey Kyushu by bike July – August 2025 Keep going
Cover of the book Korea by bike

The book of the journey

Korea by bike

Seoul, then the road to Busan. 4 volumes.